Four faces of summer

June greets us with the sounds of nature’s awakening. The uneven cries of seagulls perched on the wooden banister of a balcony facing the deep sea.

The incessant chirping of swallows gathered in groups on the taut electric wires above the empty cobbled streets, just minutes before they dart towards the horizon where the sky meets the sea. And towards the warm freedom of a summer’s dawn.

The quiet purring of a colourful group of cats, lazily sprawled on top of a yard’s fence and patiently awaiting a midday treat.

The whisper of a light breeze inviting the blossoming poppies to break into a dance against the background of a calm sea in June.

And the sea…, the sea. This blue infinity. This eternal friend that you can once again embrace. And dive into its cool waters only to feel joyous again – from being alive and all so pure…

July is bright, warm and jolly. In July the beaches fill with crowds of vacationers, happy to be greeted by the burning rays of the sun, the salty water and the many strangers willing to start new friendships with summer ease.

The sea in July is a safe harbour – warm, friendly and peaceful. Early in the morning and late in the afternoon fishing boats traverse the waters by the shores of Sozopol in search of runs of scad, goby, whiting and red mullet. The more patient of fishermen are rewarded with a streak of good luck and catch a couple of fleshy shads on their hooks. The open fishing markets quickly fill with fresh catch and restaurants with customers eager to try the offerings of the Black Sea.

The smell of fried fish, freshly boiled mussels and ouzo spreads over the streets of the old town of Sozopol. The echo of happy chatter can be heard from the yards, neatly hidden behind the thick leaves of ripe fig trees as well as from the town’s cafes where local bohemians entertain large crowds or the high cliffs by the sea where groups of kids jump into deep water without fear.

Evenings are cool and filled with the promise of beautiful emotions. Young tanned men and women dance to the music till the break of dawn while those of a more romantic disposition slip away down the cobbled streets of the old town and quietly sit by the shore of the old port where the wooden fishing boats gently sway into the dark sea of the night.

In August figs become overripe and their juice starts to drip and stick onto the sizzling hot street cobbles. The town assumes the fast-paced rhythm of a dawning summer and refuses to go to sleep. As if rebelling against the inevitable end of the warm sea salt filled days.

Hordes of newly arrived vacationers flock to the sand beaches of Sozopol.

The sea also becomes rebellious. Its waves are often small and harmless. But at times they become loud, foamy and frightful, leaving beach lovers with no other choice but to contemplate the sea’s rage from a safe distance.

Yet even in rough waters the sea-trip boats continue to sail at full speed. Restaurants and night clubs also remain open till late in the evening with few vacant seats in sight.

August is the month of never-ending entertainment, of hot beach days and long evenings, of casual meetings with friends and plenty of wine drinking. It is also a time for art. At the end of summer art makes its big entrance in Sozopol. The last days of August mark the beginning of the Apollonia Festival of Arts – a trademark event for Sozopol.

September in Sozopol starts with theater, music, dance and painting. In its first week the town welcomes actors, writers, singers, playwrights and all those who consider art and culture just as eternal as the sea itself.

The Apollonia Festival of Arts turns the end of summer in Sozopol into an eagerly awaited time. Into a time for spiritual solace. It’s a time when with your beach bag over your shoulder and on your way back from the sea cliffs you can easily drop by the town’s Art Gallery to view the exhibit of some renowned or aspiring artist. It is a time when afternoons offer a rich choice of literary readings and classical concerts while evenings are reserved for theater plays, rock, pop or jazz performances.

And when the last event of the Apollonia Festival draws to an end, the town too grows quiet. As if tourists have decided to leave their sea home all at once. The departing vacationers are more than the beach goers and loud crowds give way to quiet couples who had come to savor the calm of an ending summer.

Sun rays no longer scorch but still feel warm though very few swimmers stay long in the now chilly sea water.

Fishermen, however, are always at sea. September is a golden time for them. Their nets overflow with runs of snapper and belted bonito. The most awaited catch!